Cast Iron Gutter Repair

Cast Iron Gutter Repair

Stopping a leak in a Cast Iron Gutter, can be a challanging task if you do not have the time / skills or patience. Roofix can fix the leak in your Gutters. By using ‘Roofix’. Through Roofix we can do your Cast Iron Gutter repair, and we ensure:

  • The job is done right, first time.
  • Over 20 years trading as professional, certified, insured roofers
  • Commercial track record
  • Residential track record
  • Cast Iron Gutter Repair – is a once off job, once it is done right, but you always need to paint it up.

We can repair any leak in Gutters. Our roofers are based in Dublin and travel nationwide. Have a look at some of our testimonials. We specialise in all Gutter repairs whether it is a Alumimum Gutter Leak, Cast iron Gutter Leak or PVC gutter leak. We also do: Chimney leak, roof leaks, water leaks, flat roof leaks, slate roof leaks, felt roof leaks or shingle roof leaks. If you need a new roof, contact us.

Repairing Cast Iron Guttering

How often do tradesmen and builders merchants tell homeowners that cast iron is maintenance prone and no longer available? Both are completely incorrect points.

The secret to longevity of cast iron work is to thoroughly paint each component up to gloss finish before installation, and for guttering this includes the insides, ideally with primer, undercoat and black bitumen paint this ensures that difficult-to-paint and vulnerable areas are protected from the outset.

Occasionally a joint will begin dripping. Once dry, this can usually be sealed with a smear of putty forced into the joint from the outside and then painted with gloss on the outside and bitumen paint on the inside. Larger leaks may require the joint to be undone and properly remade. Corroded or broken items will need replacing: undoing the original connecting gutter bolts is a simple affair if they shear off when turned; otherwise a mini grinder will grind the nut off effectively. (One note of caution whilst using a grinder on metalwork ensure that any sparks are directed away from glass, enamel or glazed ware, including pottery, because the sparks will fuse on contact leaving a rough and damaged surface. Likewise sweep up any iron dust).

Remove the bulk of the existing jointing compound by scraping, chipping or grinding. Dry fit the replacement piece to ensure a good fit and remove to enable joint preparation. These days there are various rubber gaskets and gun-applied jointing compounds available and all perfectly serviceable.

Traditionally linseed putty was used, sometimes with additions. If using putty, sparingly apply a primer coat of oil-based gloss paint (any colour will do as it won’t be visible) to the joint services, place a thin sausage of putty the full width of the joint, fit the component in place and gently tighten the gutter bolts until a snug fit is obtained. The excess putty will need trimming and smoothing at both ends of the joint, and then a generous painting internally with black bitumen paint, and externally with gloss.

Sometimes guttering will leak where it discharges into a hopper head by tracking back along the underside of the gutter. Fitting a gutter bolt through the guttering at its lowest point directly over the hopper head to form a drip easily cures this.

Another potential problem can arise from the traditional practice of using one gutter bracket per length of gutter, leaving one end dependant on its neighbour this is fine whilst everything remains sound, but makes repairs awkward and any breakages from snow, old age etc can lead to a domino effect, bringing down adjacent components. Prevent this scenario by fitting extra gutter brackets.

Although it sounds obvious, after installation or repair work, gutters should be tested. A bucket of water poured into the far end will find any leaks and also indicate if any adjustments need making. Old buildings can settle considerably and sometimes the outlets need to be reversed.

And finally, for maintenance, cast iron guttering, like all gutters, needs cleaning out every year or two to prevent the build up of debris. This, together with the application of black bitumen paint to protect the inside every five or six years, will generally be sufficient to ensure many trouble-free years of use.

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